17h30 Friday, August 26, 2005 [click graphic to enlarge]
Spent last Sunday at Kalk Bay Harbour.
It's the last time I'll go there...
And the words that are used | For to get the ship confused | Will not be understood as they're spoken. | For the chains of the sea | Will have busted in the night | And will be buried at the bottom of the ocean.
...until perhaps this weekend. Over the past month, while on leave, we somehow gravitated to Kalk Bay. Unlike most of Cape Town, which lies on the other side of the peninsula, and although most of the fishermen have been deprived of quotas, it retains something of its past.
For tourists, it's the V&A Waterfront with a human face and a lot of soul. For locals, it's home. While yuppies crowd the restaurants, cafes and remarkable shops lining the old Main Road, you can find Cape Town's best fish and chips at Kalky's on the harbourfront.
Last week, I spent some time talking to Moses, a drunken fisherman soaking up the sun at the end of the harbour wall. He offered me R32,000 for my wife and bet me he could swim to Muizenberg, which we reckoned to be about "two sea miles" along the coast. The wind was howling across a green, white-capped sea and, although I bet he'd land up at Cape Hangklip on the other side of False Bay, Moses believed he could do the job.
One of his friends caught a pale, baby Great White shark and, as he swung the two-to-three foot fish over the wall, its fins gouged two gaping holes in another of their party's back. "Backstabber," muttered the drunken sot, giggling hoarsely under his whiskered breath. While they tended the wound, Moses asked me, "So Mike, what do you get twice in a week and once in a year?"
I have this thing going with one of the guys at the car park as well. He tells really shitty jokes ("If I told you I climbed an apple tree and came down with a pair, would you believe me?"), but he's okay. I thought long and hard on Moses's question. "Twice in a year and once in a week?"
"Naai, man, what do you get twice in a week and once in a year?"
He was slumped against the harbour light built in the first years of the last century, his mouth limp from sweet wine. It was about 10 a.m. Out at the reef, amid the kelp and swarms of gulls, four surfers rode a half-hearted swell, trying for a wind-blown three-footer. "Fuck it, Moses, how can you ask me that? 'What do you find twice in a week and once in a year?' How am I meant to know the answer?"
"Mike. Mike, tell me, where are you from?"
"Cape Town."
"Ja then, you'll mos know the answer."
"Mmm..."
Fishing families still work the harbour. Tough, leathered women scale, gut and carve harders, yellowtail and snoek with knives as keen as scalpels. They've special scrapers these days. They used to use pieces of wood with three or four bottle tops nailed to one end.
Speaking a loud, lyrically guttural and crude Cape Flats Afrikaans, several were giving an old fisherman hell. He'd snuck up on one of cleaning tables, pinched the bag of cheap wine hidden beneath it, and had stolen a couple of swigs. Vintage curses mixed with laughter confounded tourists photographing the fat seal rolling in the bottle-green water between the boats and the quay.
"Mike."
"Ja."
"Give me a smoke, man."
"No. That's crap, Moses, and you know it. It's ten bucks a pack and I can't afford it. Why should I give you one if I can't give one to the other guys?"
He held out a R1.00 coin.
"Here."
I lit a couple of cigarettes in the windless alcove afforded by the harbour light doorway and ignored the money. Between the century and year painted white on red above the door, somebody had written HIP2B². It's one of Mark Shuttleworth's open source initiatives.
A typically Capetonian piece of graffito. Old ideas. Old media. Very polite. I passed Moses his cigarette.
"I don't sell singles."
"No, thanks, Mike. But your wife is nice, man. R32,000."
"Fuck you, Moses. Where are you going to get R32,000?"
That stumped him.
"Twice in a week and once in a year?"
"Ja."
Clinging to a past worth preserving... [click graphic to enlarge]
A song will lift | As the mainsail shifts | And the boat drifts on to the shoreline. | And the sun will respect | Every face on the deck, | The hour that the ship comes in.
The sun burned with a stinging heat. My arms were beaded with sweat. Alvin occasionally came over and filled Moses's glass of cheap sherry. He offered me some. Eyeing the tourists filling The Brass Bell across the water, I wondered at their idiocy, packing themselves like sardines into an overpriced drinking hole, and declined.
Moses's friends were using heavy rods and their ability to cast left me in no doubt they'd been doing this for years. They came through from Retreat—Lavender Hill, most likely. It turns out Moses has a sister teaching school in Kenilworth. He has one teaching school in Elands Bay as well. Somewhere else too.
"Mike. I took Monday off work."
"But today's Wednesday, Moses."
"Ja."
He says he's working on the Majestic Hotel restoration project as an 'interior decorator'. He qualified in 1984. We lived a while in Kalk Bay back then. We had a single room above the bottle store and what is now the Olympia Cafe. We'd join the drunks on the balcony at sunrise and look out over the bay.
Hell, I first got stoned at Kalk Bay. I was about fifteen. We were staying at Zonker's great-aunt's 19th Century seaside house around the corner and came down to the harbour in the evenings. On one occasion, around sunset, a couple of fishermen working one of the boats offered us a smoke. Taking an old Coke tin in calloused hands, the old man rammed a wad of dope into its open mouth, punched a hole in the side with a marlin spike and, sucking at the hole, fired the wad with a couple of matches.
It made for a long, cool smoke.
I believed Moses's story. He could well be an interior decorator of the artisan type—a painter. The old Majestic bar used to be one of the only pubs in Cape Town that would sell alcohol to kids under eighteen. It had spittoons. Today, with the former Kings Residence next door, it's an imposing hulk being reborn as an upmarket, and tastefully ostentatious, tourism 'hideaway'.
Liqour outlets in Cape Town will serve anybody, of any age, these days.
Moses probably hadn't been missed at the construction site. A couple of days before I'd found a couple of dust-caked workers sleeping the morning away between the shore-side harbour wall and breakwater.
"'E'. You get 'e' twice in a week and once in a year."
Moses was stunned. Spittle dribbled from the side of his mouth and he tilted slightly more sideways as he squinted up at me.
"Jissus, are you a professor?"
"Uh-uh. I'm a Capetonian."
He chortled. I looked at him, drowning in the sun. Off the wall, the ocean held sway, the sea lifting paint-chapped trawlers on its segueing swell. Gulls wheeled on the wind and a couple of boats came in to epithets thrown them from the quay. One of Moses's buddies was swiftly cutting up the shark, throwing most of it off the harbour wall and keeping the rest for bait. Wendy had her face turned to the mountain and to Heaven, soaking it all in.
"Moses, what do you get seven times in a week and once in a year?"
I was messing with his head. It was always going to be beyond his drunken stupor.
Slowly... "Seven times in a month and one time in a year?"
"Seven times in a week and once in a year."
His response came quickly.
"A day. You get seven days in a week..." He tailed off into somnolence.
About ten minutes later, he asked me for another smoke. I took the money and gave him one.
We smoked in silence.
"Mike."
"Ja, Moses."
"Mike. Tell me. What do you get seven times in a week and once in a year?"
"'Y'."
"Because I want to know."
"'Y'."
"You asked me the question. Now I want the answer."
"'Y'."
Moses was getting upset. "Naai, man, Mike, don't be..."
"You get 'Y' seven times in a week, Moses. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday. And only once in a year."
He looked confused for a couple of seconds before his face lit up.
"Ja, ja, ja... you get seven 'y's in a week and one in a year."
"Yup. But the thing is, when you ask people and then have to give them the answer, you must just keep saying 'Y'."
"Why?"
"Because it drives them bevok. Like it did you."
He thought about it a while before cracking up. He was still repeating the joke to himself when we left. We promised to visit him at work, but I doubt we'll call. He'll probably be busy.
I'll look out for him this weekend though. And head for the other wall.
Then the sands will roll | Out a carpet of gold | For your weary toes to be a-touchin'. | And the ship's wise men | Will remind you once again | That the whole wide world is watchin'.
Bob Dylan | When the Ship Comes In