Monday, July 31, 2006

Big Wave Africa

The closer one gets...
The closer one gets...

Umm... yeah, the surfing. The afternoon was an awesome experience but, as mentioned, we didn't get to see too many rides. But it wasn't all bad news. On Thursday, after the competition, forecasters predicted 20-footers booming through from Antarctica Sunday. Yesterday, in driving rain and zero visibility, we sat atop the Sentinel, trying to take shots of four or five surfers riding waves topping fifty feet. Here's what Spike says:
Never before has there been such incoherent babbling by so many big wave surfers in such a short time. Three months of nothing and then three days of proper big waves and sometimes a whole lot more. By now I am sure you have heard that the Friday after the event was all time Dungeons 20-25' and reeling like Supertubes but 6-8 times overhead. And then came the coup d'grace. Yesterday, Sunday 30 July will be for-hefer etched into beefcaked brains - sinuses still dribbling saltwater over granny's shoulder at dinner. While some of us wussies scratched about at a deep reef boil on the peaking WSW swell, riding a few 8-12' chunks, the Dungeons was being ridden at absolutely MASSIVE sizes. It was GIGANTIC, according to reports. The guys are saying "one for the books", "biggest ever Dungeons", "bigger than Mike Parsons at Cortes", "will easily take the XXL awards this year", "might be the biggest EVER". Well this outflow of babble comes from the mouths of big wave babes rendered toothless by the adrenal terror of it all. Some even tried to paddle. "We nearly died!" says Nico. Anyway, the waves had wave faces of 50 to 70 feet, according to the guys. A good few were "10 times over my head" says Simon, and he's a big fella. When it rains it pours, especially after a drought.
Atop the Sentinel... alone but for the impoverished fishing village behind and beneath us, we were soon drenched, leaving only when cloud covered the mountain, turning the world to white. Nor did we get any shots worth writing home about. But so what? With waves like these, who's complaining?

...the fuzzier the picture
...the fuzzier the picture

I'll definitely be watching Big Wave Africa 2007 from the mountain top. Sometimes, looking down on others is not what we in the trade call a bad thing. And, yep, although I'll see what else I can salvage from my Sunday snaps, does anybody know where there are some decent photographs of these monsters?

Note: I've dumped several more grainy shots in an album — if only for posterity; you don't get to see waves like these every other Sunday...

Crime Wave II

'Hey! Vokoff. Jy kannie park here, man...'
"Hey! Vokoff. Jy kannie park here, man..."

Stu Savory visited South Africa a while back and was mugged. In an earlier entry on the subject, I acknowledged crime's prevalence and — thankful for Rethabile's informed support — trashed Neil Watson for his misguided hysteria.

In short, I do not deny crime's impact or reality. I do differ with most on the best way to tackle it though.

I took the photographs accompanying this entry at Big Wave Africa, held last week. A colleague took a few of us out into the swell and positioned us well enough to catch awestruck glimpses of some brain-blowing surf. Photography? Pretty much out of the question. My Baby Canon's just not up to it.

So close, yet so far...
So close, yet so far...

More, the bloody police were all over the place, keeping spectators in rubber ducks and on boats well behind the safety buoys. On the one hand — having seen a media boat coming terribly close to being up-ended by a 15-foot chomper, a strong police presence was welcome. On the other hand, it spoiled my once-in-a-lifetime view of a once-in-a-blue-moon event.

But no matter. Because I'm thinking "crime" here, police at a sporting event tells me four things:
  • We have cops.

  • We have a public service.

  • We have government.

  • Denying or decrying any or all the above will do nothing... NOTHING to rein in or reduce crime figures regarded horrendous by those contemplating conveying any article of value, including themselves, from Point A to Point B.
My argument is that no matter how many cops we have, laws we enact, fines we issue, rights we observe...crime will continue to escalate for as long as five million "haves" live among 40 million "have nots" — who for the most part, live within the law.

We're hypocrites to think or pretend otherwise. And by deflecting debate from South Africa's key problem — massive, pervasive poverty living cheek by jowl with ostentatious opulence, it's we who put visitors like Stu at risk.

Sorry, Stu ...

Saturday, July 29, 2006

Seasons in the Sun...



Adieu l'Émile je t'aimais bien | Adieu l'Émile je t'aimais bien tu sais | On a chanté les mêmes vins | On a chanté les mêmes filles | On a chanté les mêmes chagrins | Adieu l'Émile je vais mourir | C'est dur de mourir au printemps tu sais | Mais je pars aux fleurs la paix dans l'âme | Car vu que tu es bon comme du pain blanc | Je sais que tu prendras soin de ma femme | Je veux qu'on rie | Je veux qu'on danse | Je veux qu'on s'amuse comme des fous | Je veux qu'on rie | Je veux qu'on danse | Quand c'est qu'on me mettra dans le trou

Lately, Meg's been on my mind; more especially, yesterday and today. Unable to attend a memorial gathering for her at BlogHer, I carried my thoughts of her through the day.

Wendy and I found ourselves scrambling up rocky paths, into forgotten caves, and along narrow ledges under soaring slabs of prehistoric stone. We were geocaching; hunting — I guess, much like John Laroche in The Orchid Thief — an elusive treasure. Laroche sought the Ghost Orchid, and his story — enjoyed by Meg, was elevated to art by Marion Orlean, Charlie Kauffman, Chris Cooper, and Meryl Streep.

I was also seeking solace. Unable to attend the memorial — time zones and my having screwed my chances of ever finding my MSN Passport address or password precluded me joining the online link up early this morning — I spent the day reflecting on the life of a friend now gone. I'm not good at endings, so even Frank's posts on the memorial cut me up a bit, despite his being a saint for doing so much to realize the event.

I've nothing but good memories of meg. Her courage, love, and loyalty transcended in-the-world mundanities and, although she did not blog per se, she was unable to restrain herself in mails and, occasionally, her comments feature, where she'd let rip with a love of the great wide open. So I've been missing her.

I'm no great believer in synchronicity (or anything for that matter), but finding my first halfway decent calla lily of winter outside a virtually inaccessible cave on the side of the mountain set it all to rest for me. If I needed a signal, a ghost orchid, an answer to any prayer, that lily you see above is it. (Originally a South African flower, the calla or arum lily does well in California and — to me — became virtually synonymous with meg's graphic coding exercises.)

Our walk, enhanced by my finding my lily at the mouth of the cave (the unknown, it seemed to lead into the heart of the mountain), enabled me to come to terms with a pretty hard and blunt truth; i.e. for better or worse (and I'm thinking of her here), meg is gone.

And although she found it so difficult to accept or call on, meg left behind an abundance of love, perhaps the greatest gift any of us can give to other people. Claude's farewell mail reminded me of Brel. Translated by Rod Mckuen to Seasons in the Sun and made a hit by Terry Jacks, the English version — while acknowledging it — did not carry Jacques Brel's depth and down-home earthiness.

So it's Brel I hear when I say "Goodbye Michelle, it's hard..."



Adieu ma femme je t'aimais bien | Adieu ma femme je t'aimais bien tu sais | Mais je prends le train pour le Bon Dieu | Je prends le train qui est avant le tien | Mais on prend tous le train qu'on peut | Adieu ma femme je vais mourir | C'est dur de mourir au printemps tu sais | Mais je pars aux fleurs les yeux fermés ma femme | Car vu que je les ai fermés souvent | Je sais que tu prendras soin de mon âme | Je veux qu'on rie | Je veux qu'on danse | Je veux qu'on s'amuse comme des fous | Je veux qu'on rie | Je veux qu'on danse | Quand c'est qu'on me mettra dans le trou

Jacques Brel | Le Moribond

Wednesday, July 26, 2006

The Real South Africa

False Bay, Cape Town, South Africa
Where even the bad times are good...

"Do you know that for every eight tourists arriving in South Africa, an additional job will be created? For every job that is not created by turning away tourists, up to six people (in a family) are deprived of an income. By encouraging this you are removing the possibility of a livelihood from an honest hardworking South African and breeding more poverty, hate, resentment and crime. ... You are in fact creating the problem you lobby so strongly against."

Pieter Boshoff | Open Letter to Neil Watson

Pieter Boshoff tells it like it is. And, through Shelley, I found Adam Bernstein, a reasonable Capetonian — you do get them — who links to several blogs and sites proving that for every Neil Watson, there are many more real South Africans out there.

South Africans? You don't get more south African than Rethabile Masilo, a blogger who so frequently echoes my thoughts I've had to put some rather delicate questions to my dear old mother. We're not related, Rethabile, but sometimes it feels that way. Have you met Bruce? It's spooky the number of times that guy's mirrored my mind.

Anyway, The Man from the Mountain Kingdom goes the whole hog and lists the gamut of local bloggers contributing to what is, when all is said and done, a giant thermal offering much wind and odor, but little substance.

Bar Mike Stopforth, even the good guys sound apprehensive about South Africa hosting the World Cup. Where does this crap come from? Who the hell have you people been speaking to? What are you smoking? And, if the situation is so bad, why should tourists be denied a fair shot at being mugged, raped, hijacked, or murdered?

A couple of Poms, a few Germans, and several Yanks will spare many South Africans. Besides, they're walking targets. Moonbelts stuffed with dollars, they wander the streets of Cape Town in a daze, pointing giant bloody Nikon and Canon SLRs at everything in sight. Their credit cards, travellers checks, and passports poke from their pockets, and their Rolexes shine like the sun.

Although I wouldn't bet on it, I think the last tourist to die in Cape Town was the unfortunate British hiker who died when fellow English visitor Anthony Cooper set Table Mountain alight. S'far as I'm concerned, our criminals are a bunch of shifltess, lazy bastards too full of tik to put in a decent day's work. Tourists are quite safe in this laid-back town.

But, then again, perhaps I'm missing something and am more than willing to admit to blithering ignorance. My knowledge of history ain't so hot and others may hold facts vital to an appreciation of this crazed panic gripping the electric-fence and ADT set. Could someone enlighten me?

How many tourists were mugged, raped, hijacked or killed during the 1995 Rugby World Cup and the 2003 Cricket World Cup, two smoothly run, well-staged, large and immensely successful sporting events showing South Africa lacks little in the way of the expertise needed to control the likes of Zinedine Zidane?

Huh?

Tuesday, July 25, 2006

Paradise Road


"Come with me..."

Come with me down paradise road | This way please, I’ll carry your load | This you won’t believe. | Come with me to paradise skies | Look outside and open your eyes | This you must believe.

South Africans, exasperated by their government's failure to control crime, have launched a campaign to warn tourists to avoid the country in the run up to the 2010 World Cup. A website called Crime Expo, created by a disgruntled insurance broker from Johannesburg has gained significant public support to embarrass President Thabo Mbeki as he seeks to capitalise on South Africa's role as host in four years. Neil Watson, and 12 others, have started a web log of "gruesome murders taking place all over our killing fields" with warnings to tourists about what to expect in South Africa.

[...]

Although high crime levels have long been a feature of South African society, there has been a major upsurge of violent crimes in the past five months with a record 56 police officers murdered. Thousands of civilians have also lost their lives in a country with 51 murders, 150 rape cases and 345 armed robberies every day, according to the government's annual crime statistics. Crime dominates South African headlines. In the latest news, prominent Cape Town journalist Megan Herselman was shot dead as she left Johannesburg International Airport. A senior manager of Qatar Airways, Clay Pierre-Louis, was shot dead for his mobile phone on Saturday night close to where Ms Herselman was murdered.


The Independent | South Africans seek tourist boycott as crime rates soar


"... down Paradise Road"

The Independent story, under a headline showing the MSM to be more clueless than usual, carries today's date. Megan Herselman was killed a month ago.

Do we have a crime problem in South Africa? Of course we do. Do we need bullshit like that published by The Independent, which reports her death as though it occurred on the weekend? No ways. Like a hole in the head, so to speak. Shoddy journalism (Watson's a Capetonian, by most accounts) does perhaps more damage than inept police work.

My advice to the editor of the Africa news desk? Fire your reporter, Basildon Peta.

As for the local media and their dim-witted readers, they're milking Neil Watson's little embarrassment for all it's worth. One of his top stories? Non-whites Complain About Crime As Well. Glad to hear it Neil, you racist little shit. Black South Africans have always and will continue to bear the brunt of crime.

Are you surprised they respond like 'us'? Christ. Enough. You make me puke.

Those wanting to indulge in a blood fest should rather visit crimepages.co.za, a comprehensive litany of gory stories bound to sate even the most blood thirsty. I dunno...these people are hooked on violence. All South Africans suffered under apartheid, but white post-traumatic stress, compounded by latent guilt and a pressure-cooker racism, is beginning to take its toll.

Hey, I've bumped into thousands of tourists these past few months. Horror stories? I haven't heard one. Living cocooned lives in a country of 40-45 million people, most of whom live in conditions from which Neil would protect his family cat, we're not faring any worse than the statistics tell us.

Crime is rampant. But so what? Instead of whining, do something about it.

Or leave.


"... I'll carry your load"

There are better days before us | And a burning bridge behind, fire smokin’, the sky is blazing, | There’s a woman waiting weeping | And a young man nearly beaten all for love. | Paradise was almost closin’ down.

Wanna read the story of some decent people who had a rough deal?

Heard once, the song accompanying this entry will haunt you for as long as you live — which, if Neil has his way, won't be all that long. One of South Africa's greatest popular songs, those who sang it into the psyche of South Africa made little or nothing from it and, in August 2002, Anneline Malebo, Joy's last-surviving member and the voice behind Paradise Road, died of AIDS.

Joy's story, littered with mention of well-known (or notorious) Capetonians, including the unassuming Fanie Jason and indefatigable news editor Ray Joseph, is the story of too many of our great musical talents.

I met Fanie when he was being hounded by Earl Spencer — whom he was hounding — at my friend Don's place in Gugs. Like so many local musicians, Don Tshomela died too early. He's singing Meadowlands right now, his voice filling my kitchen.

Fanie Jason and Ray Joseph, a former Sunday Times mover and shaker who headed up The Big Issue before going into tabloids, don't believe in whining. They get out there and do it. It's about survival broer, and living life to the full. Check out Fanie's 2002 FiftyCrows PhotoFund essay, Living in Denial.

When contestants on Idols were given Paradise Road to sing, most of them had never heard it before. This new generation had no idea of the groundbreaking significance of the song, or the group that sang it. ‘Joy’ was Anneline Malebo, Thoko Ndlovu and Felicia Marion. They were the first black group to reach the top of the South African charts, but their journey wasn't easy.

'In 1979 it was very, very difficult — everything was very demarcated and to the extent that at the SABC in Commissioner Street, if I was taking in a record for Margaret Singana and Joy, I had to go in the Bantu entrance and not the main entrance, which was in Commissioner Street,' says Patric van Blerk, who co-wrote and co-produced Paradise Road.


Anneline's is a tragic story, but here's what protégé Tsidii le Loka said of her when asked "...what if she doesn't make it?"

"She will always be here. She has inspired compelling magnificence in all of us. She has left so much and she has yet to do much more through us. It doesn't matter about time, it doesn't matter about time for anybody — we have what we have in terms of the time given. It's what we do with that time that counts. It's about what it is we could do to make sure that we live on forever. And she lives on forever."

And so, plans are underway to re-record this song as South Africa's unofficial Aids anthem.


Crime? Give me a break...

Come with me to paradise days | It’ll change your life, it’ll shore change your ways | This you won’t believe. | Take my hand down paradise lane | Away from heartache without any pain | I know ‘cause I have been.

Joy | Paradise Road

General Knowledge...

Hear no evil...
Hear no evil...

In his book Winning Modern Wars, Clark recalls, "I went back through the Pentagon in November 2001, and one of the senior officers had time for a chat. Yes, we were still on track for going against Iraq, he said. But there was more. This was being discussed as part of a five-year plan, and there were a total of seven countries [including Afghanistan], beginning with Iraq, then Syria, Lebanon, Libya, Iran, and Sudan. So this was what they meant by 'draining the swamp.' I moved the conversation away, for this was not something I wanted to hear. And it was not something I wanted to see moving forward, either."

Mick Farren | The General Takes the Field [November 2003]

Sergeant Lemus gave investigators the following account of what happened next: About 10 minutes later, the squad leader gathered Sergeant Lemus and three other soldiers in a house nearby, telling them to "bring it in close" so he could talk quietly to them. Sergeant Girouard spoke in a "low-toned voice" and "talked with his hands," making clear he was going to kill the three Iraqis.

"I didn’t like the idea, so I walked toward the door," Sergeant Lemus said in his statement. "He looked around at everyone and asked if anyone else had an issue or a problem." No one spoke.

Soon afterward, Sergeant Lemus recounted, he was standing near the landing zone when he heard shouts and bursts of gunfire. He saw the detainees running and then falling to the ground.


New York Times | Sergeant Tells of Plot to Kill Iraqi Detainees [July 2006]

Sunday, July 23, 2006

Fuck off, Neil Watson...

'Cheers, Neil...'
"Cheers, Neil..."

...and take your wife, kids, and cat to New York as soon as possible; "Vat jou 'jecket' en 'line'," you miserable son-of-a-bitch. Grindrod, hold that offer of a ticket for this bastard. He lives in Camps Bay and can afford to pay his own way. Just see that he makes it to the airport on time. Give the cash to some other whinging, whining, cosseted arsehole willing to follow the Watsons to their new den of conspicuous consumption. Alternatively, give it to people who deserve it.

Okay, I'm as pissed off as all hell with this miserable misanthrope. There's a story to this. Apparently, Neil Watson's an insurance salesman hacked off at South Africa's high crime rate — and perhaps looking for a way to increase his business by tapping into a like-minded, fear-driven market. We head the global list in most categories of violence, in line with our being the country most beset by AIDS, TB, motor vehicle deaths, drunkenness, suicide, divorce... i.e. general malaises and / or depravities of all types.

What does he do about it? Rather than tackle these problems head on, i.e. joining the police reserve, neighbourhood watch, or local policing forum, making some politician or station commander's life hell, standing for local-government election or funding training for underpaid, under-skilled police officers, he sets up a Web site spewing the most obscene right-wing bullshit I've read since the Nats replaced the commies under the bed in 1994.

And, uh, yes, he wants to kill tourism and South Africa hosting the 2010 World Cup. Nice guy. That'd be several hundred thousand jobs down the drain. To achieve his goals, Neil writes to the prime minister. Yeah, right, we don't have one. So he writes to "Yo, Blair!" Listen to this sycophantic bullshit:
While I know that you have a lot to contend with at this time with Israel and Gaza/Lebanon conflict (and I agree with you on the causes), please spare a thought for a subject that is going to be another Zimbabwe in a few short year’s (sic) time.

I refer to, of course, the very dangerous situation that has existed for some years now since 1994 and is still no better, where an average of 20.000 (sic) people a year are reported murdered (how many are not reported?) and the rapes, robberies and serious violence since Apartheid ended, plus of course the serious levels of corruption and waste at all government levels.
Screw crime in South Africa. This prick's already shown himself out of synch with common sense, reality, and the Twenty-first Century. Bring back apartheid and shoot the fuckers, eh? Yeah, we know who you mean Neil, and if you don't piss off, you might find a member of your family raped or murdered by one of 'them' (my family has experienced several such incidents).

Watch out for Patricia de Lille, man... (remember international hotels?)

'...'If you were wondering who Safety and Security Minister Charles Nqakula was addressing when he told the whingers and whiners to get the hell out of South Africa as they don't belong here, Neil Watson's your man. While I know nothing of this obvious jerk, any salesman able to afford a Camps Bay lifestyle is not earning his money; he's taking it from the overwhelming number of South Africans either unemployed or paid a sub-standard wage by fat cats who grind their employees into the dirt with their sense of self-importance, self-entitlement, and over-priced SUV.

The average South African lives in poverty, but the fat-walleted, well-oiled smoothies of the wheel an' deal set live in the perfumed lap of a softly cushioned income gap that has widened alarmingly since Trevor Manuel was forced to cave into America's bankers, the IMF, WB, and WTO in 1996. And, yes, if you can direct me to any 4-million strong North American city boasting as many Mercedes Benzes, BMWs, Audis and exotic cars as Cape Town, I'll pay your fucking ticket over. And that city needn't have as many people living in conditions similar to most Capetonians.

There are still way too many of these chicken-shit bleaters cluttering the Cape. It's embarrassing. Most have never been into or stayed for any length of time in one of Cape Town's townships or shantytowns. Neil, about ten or fifteen years back, my wife and I got to know Steven, Portia and their two kids quite well and visited their home in Site C. Spotless as a bloody pin. Steven was stabbed twice in the chest — for no reason — coming out of a shebeen. Portia and the kids were left penniless. Cira spent nine months in JP Stals after arriving emaciated, delirious and riddled with TB on our front doorstep. He made it. Don, like Mankunku and so many others, was a Gugs legend. His home was filled with music and I called it "The Soul Clinic".

You ever been to these places, Neil? Ever get to meet great South Africans like Dannayi Ndlovu, Max Diyamani, Stoto Zibi, Ephraim 'Cups' Kanuka? As far as I know, two of the five are dead now, but all four — who shaped and formed the music we listen to today, lived and died in Langa.

'Cheers, Neil...'Have you or your supporters been into the Cape Flats, to Belhar, to Elsies, to Bonteheuwel, to Hanover Park, to Manenberg, to Mfuleni, to... agh, fuckit, I doubt it. Life's hard out there Neil, but most of the people living out there don't do crime. They're victims of a socially imposed poverty and, most importantly, they're the first to suffer the crime you so glibly speak of from behind the electric fence of your gated suburb.

Don't live in a gated suburb? Don't have an electric fence? Well, let me tell you a little story. After shopping at Constantia Village, my fifteen-year old daughter commented on the security measures in places like ... that walled suburb they have there. I can't remember its name. Silverhurst Estate or something. Anyway, she has friends in the strangest places and remarked that she saw no need for such absurdities. "Constantia already has a security fence encircling it," she advised me. Bemused, I asked her what the hell she was speaking about.

"Money," she replied promptly and with not a little cynicism in her voice. She's a kid, Neil, but she sees through your lies. She mixes with the weirdest types. She's enjoyed Sunday lunch with the Zumas and swum in the President's pool. She's counted cabinet ministers and gangsters' kids among her former Model C classmates. What can I say? It's a different world. Why write to Blair when you can phone Thabo? I swear on it. Our national leaders are that accessible. I'll swear on something else too. Cape Town has no crime problem. It has a people problem and, as is usually the case, money's at the root of it.

'...Bye, Meneer Watson...'
'...bye, Meneer Watson...'

Inequity. 'Haves' and 'have-nots'. When you're on the 'outers' with nothing to sustain you, and you're constantly slapped in the face by flagrant opulence, crime doesn't seem such a bad thing. About a month ago, two restaurants, one convenience store, and a video store on my block were held up by differing numbers of guys with guns. Nobody expects any arrests. It's called levelling the playing fields, Bubba, and we've along way to go. We need more and not less BEE, of a real and meaningful kind. We need affirmative action in every sector of our benighted society.

At some clubs in Bloemfontein, Die Stem is still sung at midnight.

It's not the government's problem, Neil. They're there to legislate and regulate. The public sector, riven with old-guard insecurities, and the private sector, making hay while the sun shines, are the places to look if blame is to be placed.

Neil, you sound like a man who'd learn something from a popular chap like M. Scott Peck. I used to loathe him, Neil; but, then, I'd never read him. I picked up The Road Less Travelled one day and made it to the first chapter, wherein the good cornflake psychiatrist starts out by saying something to the effect of: "Nobody ever said life was going to be fair." I read the rest of the book based on that first line. Here was somebody who, while remaining relatively pragmatic, recognised and felt comfortable with contradiction, opposites, conflict and dis-harmony as a natural part of life.

He did not seek to duck it.

You're trying to duck it, Neil. And, if I've learnt one thing in life, it's that it has a habit of catching up on you. And that's why I'll never need a security fence, ADT, or a gated suburb. I have friends. They hang out at the local intersection and they sell The Big Issue. I look after them. Why? Because they look after me. It's a funny thing, Neil. Once you start behaving and living like a South African, crime ceases to be a problem. And then you really start to appreciate what a remarkable country we have.

I love this place, man. Don't damage it.

Note: Okay, I've hammered this out after reading the aticle quoted above and will insert links in the days ahead. I'll also write more on it because, although angered by the possible consequences of Neil's action, he's voicing the fears and prejudices of far too many white South Africans. It gives us all a bad name. Also, the risk of criminal attacks against tourists? Absolutely minimal. But more later. It's late and I'm up at 05:00.

That said, I've just taken a break and enjoyed a smoke out on the balcony. Two guys were arguing down on Main Road. I didn't listen, but I did catch the end of it. "Jou ma se poes." Hey, when you hear that phrase, you know you live in Cape Town and you know you're alive.

Saturday, July 22, 2006

This is not Dunkirk


How brave our warships looked at dawn. Spread over the pale blue Mediterranean, bristling with cannons and machine guns and missiles, it was an armada led by the destroyer HMS Gloucester and the USS Nashville and York and the sleek French anti-submarine frigate Jean-de- Vienne. They represented Us, those ships upon which the Lebanese stared with such intensity yesterday. They represented our Western power, the military strength of our billion-dollar economies. Who would dare challenge this naval might?

It was, our journalists told us, to be the greatest evacuation since Dunkirk. There it was again, the Second World War. And it was another cruel lie which the Lebanese spotted at once. For these mighty craft had not arrived to save Lebanon, to protect a nation now being destroyed by America's ally, Israel, Lebanon whose newly flourishing democracy was hailed by our leaders last year as a rose amid the dictatorships of the Arab world. No, they were creeping through the dawn after asking Israel's permission to help their citizens to flee. These great warships had been sent here by Western leaders (Jacques Chirac excepted) too craven, too gutless, too immoral, to utter a single word of compassion for Lebanon's suffering.

Even Lord Blair of Kut al-Amara could only condemn Hizbollah for attacking the Israelis last week - yes, of course, Lord Blair, they did indeed "start this", as our Foreign Secretary never ceases to say - without mentioning Israel's savage killing of more than 300 Lebanese civilians. No, those ships I watched steaming into Beirut port yesterday did not represent Dunkirk. They represented Munich.


Robert Fisk | This is not Dunkirk. This is Munich

Fisk tells it like it is and Sabbah puts you in the picture.

Thursday, July 20, 2006

Finding Sandy Bay



When windswept desolation proscribes your city limits, it's hard not to fall in love with it. A half hour out of the CBD along Cape Town's Atlantic coast, a promontory shaped by the Karbonkelberg and the icy Atlantic has remained virtually inaccessible to all but hardy hikers for as long as I can remember.

It was to this place of peace, drowned by the sounds of pounding surf and wind-blown fynbos, that we retreated last weekend to search out a couple of geocaches marked 'Sandy Bay' and 'Blood, Sweat and Sandy Bay'.

Starting out at our first waypoint — and the first cache, we took an easy walk along a changing coast under rain-sodden skies. From the white-sand sweep of Sandy Bay, the terrain turns to broken rock and thick scrub and the going gets somewhat tougher.

On an outcrop featuring one of the areas many shipwrecks, the Blood, Sweat and Tears cache was well any effort we'd expended getting there.

Despite threatening rain and exposure to a cutting wind, the area's beauty ensured a lunch break, some rock scrambling, shell hunting, and a study of the coast leading to the wreck of the Boss 400, a large barge lying hard against the cliffs across a small cove.



Figuring we had everything mapped out, we headed a couple of hundred feet up the Karbonkelberg, but could not find the path leading around the bay. Instead, we settled for a circular walk and, rather than heading back down to the beach, we took the high sand-and-clay road back towards Sandy Bay and Llandudno.

The weather put a heavy damper on any halfway decent snaps of the walk, but our two geocache finds more than made up for the loss. I've yet to work out geocaching's mystique, but will speak more of it when I do.

And, you know, the pictures don't really matter. They give you an idea of the land and give me an image and a reminder of what I'd like to try next time round. A camera is certainly more than an image gatherer. I've not understood or fully appreciated the work Shelley's done over so many years, but I do feel as though I'm beginning to appreciate that there's a hell of lot more to the act of making images than first meets the eye.

Image making is an intensely personal and creative act. It's also something one can get pretty passionate about, no matter the results. Like life, it's partly what you make of it, and you can do pretty much as you please within the area framed by the lens.

I dig it. Being a photo-journalist, I just have to figure out how to meld words and graphics. To a professional like me, though, that should prove a doddle; as easy as any winter's hike up a forgotten peak somewhere between nowhere and the city.

But that's it for now. This weekend? A 100 percent chance of a howling winter gale replete with lashing rain and a 5 meter swell. Who knows; maybe a ship will run aground and I'll find myself deep inside the Budget Canon fast becoming a part of me.

Or vice versa…

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

Arabs Don't Cry



Upon learning of the Israeli massacres of Marwahin, Rumaylah, Duwayr, etc in South Lebanon, the White House took a stand. Today, it called on Syria to stop the aggression.

The French Prime Minister came all the way to Lebanon to inform the Lebanese that Israel has a right to defend itself.

Today, for those who follow the so-called Israeli "peace movement", five people demonstrated in Israel against Israeli aggression. Three of the five were Arabs.

On the 6th day of Israeli aggression on Lebanon, the Grand ... Ayatullah Sistani ... released a statement. Here is full translation: "Blah, blah, blah, Islam, blah, blah, Allah, blah, blah, blah."

Arabs don't cry. Today, the SF Chronicle had a picture of an Israeli woman crying. Arab tears are banned from US media. They stain the paper.

As'ad AbuKhalil | The Angry Arab News Service

Back in 2002/3, many of us wrote at length of the Bush Doctrine's implications for the United States, Israel, and the world. Today, I leave it to others far-better informed and qualified than I to communicate, persistently, the continuing atrocities and war crimes of the Western Axis of Evil.

A couple of years' ago, our ability to read the situation correctly was made easy by publication of the Bush regime's intent, i.e. their will to give effect to expansionist, global divide-and-rule policies fragmenting U.S. enemies, thereby negating their value to arch economic rivals China.

George W. Bush won his war. Having quieted Russia and pressured India into their orbit, the neocons have had their way. Today, they continue to impose their demented will unfettered by any sanction; aided and abetted by Western governments in the most cynical, evil way.

The only upside to the present carnage is that it presages a time when regional and global thugs are rolled over. My only hope is that present and future generations of resistance fighters inflict no more damage and suffering on the United States and Israel than they have themselves endured.

For as certainly as night is night and day is day, that time will come.

Israel, in pursuing the policy statements given Netanyahu in Securing the Realm, has assured itself an end for which it can blame nobody but its tight-knit military industrial cabal, those funding it, those serving it, and those propagating its vile, unholy deceits and lies.

Let's be clear about this. While mainstream media expediently deny any distinction between Israel, rabid Zionism, and Judaism, I spit on their disingenuousness. For Israelis, I weep. In 1948, they were given a hell of an opportunity. But time, state-sponsored terror, international collusion, and real politik tell us the Israel experiment is over.

What we have today is a detestable continuation of what has become ordinary; a vicious, war-crazed society devoid of scruples slaughtering — with an insatiable, glee-filled blood lust — all in its reach.

Remorse? Hah! Rapture? More apt.

It's high time the barely sane remnants of a world gone mad start fighting fire with fire, initiating a pre-emptive defense of itself against the war psychosis driving Israel and its primary supporter, the United States. Using all and any means.

As'ad describes himself a leftist. I don't know. The enormity of the crime perpetrated and perpetuated over so many decades against so many countries and people, marks him decidedly centrist. Forgiving him his vocal abhorrence of the soporific effect of the media's Orwellian newspeak, his is a voice of sanity and reason.

The neocons and their sponsors have chosen apocalypse to achieve their goals. So be it. As resistance to their barbarity gains momentum and more lay down their lives so that others may live to fight an enemy greater than death, a similar violence will see the deserved end of Israel, the United States, and all their fellow travellers.

Okay, that's it. Besides, we've spoken about this before. I'm going back to my trivial pursuits... But do look at the pictures linked to in the text; for whatever reason, be it to support the troops, peace, love, the trippy visuals, etc...

Thursday, July 13, 2006

The Governor's Wife


Where East meets West...

On her maiden voyage from Swansea in Wales to Sydney in Australia, the Kakapo, a British steamer built in 1898 by the Grangemouth Dockyard Company and commanded by Captain P. Nicolayson, put into Cape Town on May 25th 1900 before continuing her voyage into the teeth of a north-west gale.

Rounding Hout Bay, the Kakapo was pushed towards the southern end of Chapman's Bay. Captain Nicolayson, mistaking Chapman's Peak for Cape Point, turned hard east and drove his spanking-new vessel so far up the beach at Noordhoek her crew of twenty were able to scramble ashore. All attempts to pull the stricken ship off the sandy beach failed.


Source: Submerged Productions

Direction-finding devices have a long and proud history in South Africa.

The above compass, found near the Cape of Good Hope several hundred years ago, is now preserved at the old Cape Point lighthouse. Believed to have come from the wreck of a ship belonging to a dyslexic empire builder, it was originally housed at the Castle in Cape Town, an ugly edifice and the HQ of Dutch occupation forces at the time.

At some stage during the early eighteenth century, the Governor's Wife decided to put local slaves (those not being put to the sword for sport) to work, and she had them replicate thousands of the damned thing for export.

Her industry — and that of her slaves, whom she beat mercilessly as they laboured under the hot African sun — bore mixed results. Shortly after shipping her first consignment, ships began foundering at an alarming rate. Down at Cape Point, local ship wreckers grew fat and idle watching countless vessels, large and small, turn into (rather than away from) Bellows Rock.

They no longer found the need to light fires at night, and busied themselves building restaurants, bordellos, curio shops, casinos and other tourist attractions on the 200m cliffs overlooking the Indian and Atlantic Oceans.

Mortal compass...The Governor's Wife's social standing and official status ensured a ready market for her compasses and, being familiar with the courts of Europe, she was bound to bump into and make some large sales to local luminaries. Napoleon Bonaparte was, if not her most notorious, then perhaps her first major sale. Using the dyslexic compass made by the Cape Governor's Wife (and her well-whipped slaves), Napoleon planned his invasion of Britain.

His armies perished around Moscow.

After numerous small successes (see the Kakapo above), the sinking of the Lusitania (locally) in 1911, and the Titanic (up north) in 1912, the compass secured its market and its place in history. It also put Cape Town firmly on the map — so to speak — and, despite some muttering from Lloyds of London, the city became a favoured port for vessels of shipping magnates fond of Russian roulette and other Xtreme sports.

While insular Capetonians harboured their dark secret, i.e. the dyslexic compass, South Africa's Mother City's greatest moment remains her contribution to the Allies ridding the world of Adolf Hitler in 1945. Proving that lightning can strike twice, a descendent of the Governor's Wife flogged a second-hand compass to Eva Braun, whom he met at a gay bar while backpacking around Europe in 1934. Much like Napoleon, Hitler used the dyslexic compass to plan his Final Onslaught on the Windswept Rock of the North Sea Otherwise Known as England (Operation FOWRNSKE).

His armies, as we know, perished at Stalingrad.

We Capetonians are a modest bunch, seldom given to boasting or exaggeration. So, while inordinately proud of our contribution to history and the furtherance of science, we seldom speak of the compass belonging to the Governor's Wife and we will never refute the official story explaining the wreck of the Kakapo.

And, although several GW™ compasses have found their way into the White House — explaining that country's resemblance to the Soviet Union and the likeness of Putin's Russia to Kennedy's United States, we are focussing on hosting the 2010 soccer World Cup rather than on our being responsible for the outbreak of WWIV.

Wednesday, July 12, 2006

The Powers of Flowers


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"Trippy visuals, man..."

"Yeah, but where is the WonderChicken?"

"Dunno. He said he'd be back in a coupla weeks. That was June."

"What made you think of Stav?"

"Just Shelley."

"Huh?"

She's back. She says she's clean too. Wanta see some good pics?"

"Yeah."

"Have a squizz at these then..."

"Holy Jesus...!"

"Yeah..."

Tuesday, July 11, 2006

Skyline


Harmonious intersects...

On February 2, 1928, Professor Walter Swanson and his friends, Alfred and Violette Clarke, took a walk on the Silvermine mountains, part of the Table Mountain chain.

The walking party probably took the train to Retreat on the Cape Flats, strolled to the foot of the mountain, and walked up along the untarred Old Cape Road. I assume they turned off towards the reservoir — built 30 years earlier (in 1898) to water the people of Cape Town — before climbing to their destination at Noordhoek Peak, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.

A Cape Town notable, Swanson was a member of the Royal Academy of Music. A multi-talented viola player, a former member of several London orchestras, and the Professor of Violin at the Grahamstown College (Rhodes University), he went on to become a renowned composer and conductor. A member of the SABC for about 35 years, he presented many of the public broadcaster's early 'live-to-air' orchestral concerts broadcast from its Cape Town studios.

From Noordhoek Peak, the musical professor and his companions would have found most of the Cape Peninsula lying at their feet. To the south, the villages of Fish Hoek and Simonstown would have been clearly discernible and, to the west, Kommetjie and Noordhoek. Chapman's Peak and its coastal drive, opened only a few years earlier, and Hout Bay, would have loomed large immediately beneath them.

To commemorate his walk with his friends (ascending more than two thousand feet over some five miles of rocky terrain), Swanson pencilled his route details briefly on the back of his calling card, signed and dated it, secured it against the weather, and cached it atop the peak. Since that day, others have stumbled across Professor Swanson's note and, using slips of paper and a pencil now packed into an old plastic peanut-brittle jar (the Prof would've used glass), have added their two bits' worth.


Time stands still...

I know of the good professor's trip only because, come sunrise Saturday, I found myself looking for something Larks left in much the same position. I've not met Larks, but he is, like me, a professional, and I wanted to find his stash. Larks is a geocacher, a species that 'litters' inaccessible but spectacular countryside with unobtrusive objects of interest and / or note. Geocaching? Indeed. Well, why not? I do, after all, have to air out my Budget Canon and photojournalism associate on weekends.

McCracken McCracken is not always in the best of moods and the camera's shutter mechanism is shot, so added adventure is always most welcome. After a colleague flogged me a GPS and mailed me a couple of URLs, I was hooked. In much the same way bloggers chart Web space in new and inventive ways, geocachers are marrying the Web to the world, using tech to communicate with each other over time and spectacular distance. In many ways, both activities harness the same energies and make the spaces we inhabit decidely more friendly places than they might otherwise be.

However, as most of the locations covered on this blog since April appear to be cache sites, it seems, this time, I'm what one might term a 'late adopter'. Then again, given Professor Swanson's 78-year old note atop Noordhoek Peak, aren't we all?

I never did find Larks's cache. There are many balancing rocks up there. Nor, after lugging McCracken McCracken, my 15-year old daughter, and her stoned boyfriend up precarious hill and down vertiginous dale, did I uncover Professor Merry's cache at Sentinel View. But so what? A seven-hour hike is meat and drink to an old man like me and, like MacArthur (no relation to McCracken McCracken), I shall return.

I suppose Swanson's cache ameliorated my disappointment at not finding geocaches that stick out like sore thumbs on a piece of techno-wizardry because, the next day, I found the car headed for another cache, in the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. This one was a relative doddle [238KB] (a good GPS will always let you know when you are arriving at your waypoint) and, after placing a small piece of Noordhoek Peak at the spot, we headed out to Llandudno [156KB] to watch the sun set on a weekend as spent as we.

But, yes...this is all beside the point. Check out the view instead...

Note: My thanks to Bear, Fox, and Larks for giving me the waypoints to a space where the Web and the world work as one. Professor Swanson and the Clarkes? They're around...somwhere. It's up to you to find them.

Sunday, July 02, 2006

Cape Crime Wave

Things go better with Coke...
"Things go better with Coke..."

Mother doesn't go out any more | Just sits at home and rolls her spastic eyes | But every weekend through the door | Come words of wisdom from the world outside | If you want to know about the bishop and the actress | If you want to know how to be a star | If you want to know about the stains on the mattress | You can read it in the Sunday papers, Sunday papers.

Western Cape police officials have admitted they are losing the battle to maintain law and order on Cape Town's increasingly anarchic highways because the city is so underpoliced. The city has significantly fewer police personnel than Johannesburg. There is one policeman for every 2 300 Capetonians compared with Johannesburg's one to 1 700. Criminologists say the ideal in South Africa is one to 1 000. At night, only 12 traffic officers are on duty in Cape Town.

Apart from the official reported figure of close to 8 000 motor accidents a month in Cape Town — 300 a day in the city itself — violent crime has escalated along certain routes. These include robberies, the ambushing of cars at "roadblocks", stonings and smash-and-grab thefts. The city's current five "no-go zones", according to Metro Police chief Bongani Jonas, are the N2 between Langa and the R300; the R300 itself; Borcherd's Quarry Road near Cape Town International Airport; Vanguard Drive and Baden Powell Road.

Even tow-truck drivers are too afraid to park along these routes. "It's the Wild West; even the police are scared of the bandits," said one operator who asked not to be named. This week Ruwayda Kolia-Sonday and her three children, Saarah (8), Alee (4) and Eemaam (2) narrowly escaped serious injury when a concrete block was dropped on their car from a bridge near Nyanga on the N2. Kolia-Sonday said when she called the 10111 emergency number to report the incident, the operator told her to "calm down; it happens all the time."

And officer who works at the flying squad call centre said callers who phoned in about incidents on the most dangerous highways were often hysterical. "It's hectic out there at night." The flying squad deploys up to four vehicles on the N2 24 hours a day. They are also permanently stationed along Vanguard Drive because of the many smash-and-grab incidents on that road. "We receive about 2 000 calls a day and a substantial number relate to problems along the N2, the R300 and Vanguard Drive," a police spokesperson said.

The flying squad can only patrol the N2 itself — bridges and roads across the highway have to be patrolled by local police personnel. "People hide on the bridges and wait until we drive off. By the time we've turned around, people have been hurt," said a flying squad officer who asked to remain anonymous. Tow-truck operators called to accidents and breakdowns along the "no-go routes" tell frightening tales of bandits who hide on the roadside and set up roadblocks to cause accidents.

"I got a call out to the R300 and found a man had driven into a barrier of rocks. He was lying on the other side of the road, unable to move and told me he'd been robbed of his phone, wallet and prosthetic leg," said a tow-truck operator. Violence along the N2 and R300 have been an issue for at least 20 years and the Metro Police set up a mobile unit in a container on the N2 opposite Khayalitsha two years ago to counter the problem. But officers who man the unit usually knock off at 5pm and the container houses no phones.

The severe shortage of traffic officials on the Peninsula is also seen as a key factor in the high number of road accidents on the Peninsula. The Cape Town traffic department has taken on no new staff since 1999. "Some days we are two traffic officials on duty in the city because people are sick, are on courses or posts have been made redundant," said a police officer working in the city centre. "You can't quote me; we were told we'd be fired if we talk to the media."

Cape Town has 1 561 Metro Police officers, including traffic and law-enforcement personnel. Jonas refused to say how many officers are on duty at night. "Criminals also work out and plan their modus operandi — I cannot give you those figures." In January last year, 7 819 people were hurt on the city's roads — a figure that rose to 10 775 in June that year. "Every month the figure goes up," said Velma Lou from the Metropolitan Transport Accident Information Centre. More recent statistics are not available.

According to the Road Traffic Management Corporation's 2005 report, 11,8 percent of all reported accidents took place in the Western Cape. The estimated cost of fatal crashes countrywide increased by 3,3 percent from R8,6-billion in 2003 to 8,8-billion in 2004. The report says that more than 90 percent of crashes reported countrywide are caused by lawlessness.


Mail & Guardian [print edition] | Mother City's No-go Zones

Mother's wheelchair stays out in the hall | Why should she go out when the TV's on | Whatever moves beyond these walls | She'll know the facts when Sunday comes along. | Brother's heading that way now I guess | He just read something made his face turn blue | Well I got nothing against the press | They wouldn't print it if it wasn't true.

Much is being made of crime in South Africa. The media are full of it — in most ways. A good Catholic, blogger, professional photojournalist, and hard man to boot, I am not easily phased by such hysteria.

Anarchy has taken root. So what? George W. Bush is to blame. We bloggers have known and understood this for years.

This said, I must say it came as something of a surprise to me that I should fall victim to a vicious mugging and brutal assault this weekend. You can find the full story here. I am not over it and have yet to report the matter to the police; but will do so tomorrow.

Needless to say, I fought back, heaping imprecations on my dumb assailant.

Also, being a hardened journalist, I had the presence of mind to sneak a photograph of both the beast and the article so rudely taken from my possession. The attacker's face is quite discernible but, you know what they say; all criminals look much the same.

Nevertheless, if you do see the above unsavoury looking character, please do not approach him directly; report your sighting to your nearest police station instead.

And, hey, if you happen to find my bottle of Coke, I'd like it back. You know where to find me.

I'll get the bastard. Trust me.

Sunday papers don't ask no questions | Sunday papers don't get no lies | Sunday papers don't raise objection | Sunday papers don't got no eyes.

Joe Jackson | Sunday Papers